Every once in a while, I hear from clients "I've had my hair cut with the razor and it damaged my hair." That's when I follow up with way more questions then they usually expect:
Does your hair frizz easily?
Was your hair colored or highly processed then?
Was it done by a stylist that you know and trust?
Did you have a thorough consultation before hand?
I like to do a little investigating before letting my client swear off for life what could be a really great cut for her/him. Some people have one bad hair experience whether it's with a razor, thinning shears, bangs, a product (you get the point) and don't take some other variables into account. Now, I'm not saying a razor cut is good for everyone because it definitely is NOT. Here are some things I like to consider before picking up the razor.
Texture is determined best by examining and touching the hair to consider whether or not dryness and frizz is a problem. If so, the razor may not be the best option. Cutting highly textured hair with the razor will only add more unwanted texture and create frizz. Many times, curly hair is sworn off when it comes to the razor but isn't always necessary. Curly doesn't always equal frizzy. I have cut a ton of curls with the razor to create volume and layers. I have also turned the razor cut away from bone straight hair if the texture is too rough.
Highly processed or damaged hair is more fragile and doesn't always respond well to the razor because of the thinned out tapered ends it creates. If the cuticle is already compromised, cutting more of a blunt line with shears helps those aggravated ends lay much nicer. In this case, if my guest really wants more of a softer line, point cutting with shears is also a better option than the razor.
Now that we've covered texture and condition, density is another important one to consider. If the first two you can check off as good, you still need to look at how MUCH hair is there. Razor cuts are great for removing bulk along with length so medium to thick hair is ideal. Those with thin or fine hair can still enjoy the razor, but usually I'm a little more conservative in how I use it.
Some bonus points
ALL of these things need to be discussed during a consultation not to mention what the client should expect with maintenance and styling at home. Razor cuts should always, always, always be done with a sharp, clean razor!
Questions or comments on razor cuts? Please chime in!